Rick Owens was painstakingly examining pieces of tulle in his study a few weeks prior to his show, trying to grasp the essence of the fabric and interpreting any possible structural dynamics that might come from such exercise…His idea was to convert it into something else other than the fabric readily associated with dance and ballerinas, if anything else he wanted to create a new identity of pragmatic beauty and industrial like strenght that would be associated with the aesthetic sense that his woman favours… Continue reading “Beauty in Strength at Rick Owens” »
Ninety-three shows, nine days, one fashion-crazed city. On fire, filled with political dissonance, civil unrest, good bread, bad waiters and great fashion….
The world’s travelling circus of fashion editors, buyers and celebrities waved goodbye to the cobbled streets of Milan and cried “Bonjour Paris” on Tuesday, bracing itself for the last, most colorful furlong of spring-summer 2015 ready-to-wear shows. Continue reading “Paris Fashion Week gets on the way.” »
“I have this life,” said Stefano Gabbana backstage before Dolce & Gabbbana’s catwalk show in Milan on Sunday afternoon. “I want to be happy. I want to eat tomatoes and pasta. I want to have passion and indigestion.” Continue reading “Dolce and Gabbana close Milano Fashion Week with a Spanish Ole’” »
This season marks 20 years of Marni, the label Consuelo Castiglioni launched as an offshoot of her husband’s family fur business and built to become one of the most sought after Italian labels internationally. All around town, Castiglioni’s peers have been looking backward, regardless of a milestone to celebrate, and, while she used her spring runway for a fantastic display of fashion acrobatics, she did so without reverting to retro melancholy just beautiful clothes with a futuristic, Japanese twist that made it all look new, fresh wearable and interesting. Continue reading “Future present at Marni” »
Obligatory referential stop as it may be, Peter Dundas didn’t need to design a Seventies-inspired collection to signal that his heart belongs to the decade. Everything about him — the curls, the cool glasses, his rock ’n’ roll attire — already makes the point. “I held a grudge against my parents that I wasn’t an adult in the 1970s to actually have fun then,” the designer said backstage before the show. “It just feels right again now.”
She seldom gets respect after all she might still be living in the shadow of Gianni even after more than 14 years….but this one was a collection Gianni would have been proud of. Simply because it transcended the original Ethos of the house to effortlessly usher a new era for Versace… she went somewhat graphic and minimal…but it seems that the hand of time had ruffianly taken its toll on the house a relic of time gone by: big hair, lots of coke, Russian whores and oligarchs…that was Versace and horribly still is…to some extent. It seemed no one wanted to say anything make any comment…but the results were glaringly obvious like the plastic surgery on Donatella’s face and that nose…how can you not say anything how can it be ignored…ewh. Continue reading “Donatella comes of age with a defining collection.” »
LONDON — On the penultimate evening of London Fashion Week, Samantha Cameron, Britain’s first lady and British Fashion Council ambassador, and Natalie Massenet, the council’s chairwoman, co-hosted a cocktail event at 10 Downing Street to celebrate what both women were careful to call “British fashion,” a.k.a. the “most successful of our creative industries,” according to Ms. Cameron — bigger than film, music and advertising. Continue reading “London Calling: What Does ‘British’ Style Really Mean?” »
No one does the seventies better than Tom Ford. It is his is claim to fame, the era that he best understand, encapsulates and refines into beautiful, expensive clothes…just remember the Gucci of the mid 90′s…it made him a star and a very rich man.
So for Spring, Mr. Ford, worked up an unapologetic homage to glam rock for spring — with the focus squarely on the glam. Models with Joan Jett-esque shags and kohl-rimmed eyes strode out on towering platform-soled sandals in a lineup of super lean, glitter-and-sequin-spangled designs.
Continue reading “Tom Ford homage to Glam Rock” »
Spring was in full bloom as Christopher Bailey donned his rose-tinted glasses — and beetle-green, cornflower, and mimosa lenses, too — for a collection that drew on the joys of a country spring. There was no sign of mud, manure or mosquitoes in Bailey’s Eden, only gossamer fabrics, iridescent surfaces — and decorative bugs….
Citing the work of Josiah Wedgwood as one of his inspirations, Marjan Pejoski: the Macedonian fashion designer who lives and works in the UK and is mainly known for designing Björk’s iconic swan dress, reclaimed the classic cameo and reworked it in appliqué, lace and embroidery in a strong collection that recalled Eighties power dressing. Continue reading “Marjan Pejoski “High Art” for KTZ” »