The Entertainer: JPG

posted by on 2014.09.28, under articles of interest
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He has entertained crowds for nearly four decades. He played a major role in turning some fashion traditions on their head and legitimizing the influence of the street on designer ready-to-wear. He made sailor stripes a wardrobe staple, and gave fashion cred to Madonna’s cone bras (and bare breasts, which made one notorious appearance on his runway). In between those years, there were plenty of great clothes and campy adventures, the latter trumping the former in recent years. Continue reading “The Entertainer: JPG” »

HAIDER ACKERMANN SPRING 2015

posted by on 2014.09.27, under articles of interest
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Despite its hue of faintest dusty pink, an oversize sweater with chiffon back tucked with haphazard precision into languid trousers doesn’t immediately telegraph a flower inspiration. Nor do slouchy pantsuits or intricately ruched jackets. Perhaps that’s because we’re programmed to expect the obvious: floral inspiration/floral patterns.
Continue reading “HAIDER ACKERMANN SPRING 2015” »

The new House rules at Martin Margiela

posted by on 2014.09.27, under articles of interest
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Housedresses? Aprons? Daisies? Yes, Laura, the not-so-little house of conceptual fashion and deconstruction has decamped to the prairie for spring. It made for a sweet, if underwhelming, collection, with smaller doses of the usual Margiela quirk…The house establishedf by a designer whose identity is unknown to the public at large is in the process of establishing a brand identity that will make it into a global power brand…in spite of itself.

Continue reading “The new House rules at Martin Margiela” »

Beauty in Strength at Rick Owens

posted by on 2014.09.26, under articles of interest
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Rick Owens  was painstakingly examining pieces of tulle in his study a few weeks prior to his show, trying to grasp the essence of the fabric and interpreting any possible structural dynamics that might come from such exercise…His idea was to convert it into something else other than the fabric readily associated with dance and ballerinas, if anything else he wanted to create a new identity of pragmatic beauty and industrial like strenght that would be associated with the aesthetic sense that his woman favours… Continue reading “Beauty in Strength at Rick Owens” »

Bohemian Elegance at Van Noten

posted by on 2014.09.25, under articles of interest
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Swathed in lavish mélanges of color and pattern, a congregation of young bohemian women sprawled in transcendental serenity across a mottled carpet of multi toned mossy greenery. Makeup-free with hair more everyday wash-and-wear than undone-for-the-runway, they created a poetic mise-en-scène to end Dries Van Noten’s show. It was exquisite. Like the man himself,  elegance personified.

Continue reading “Bohemian Elegance at Van Noten” »

Paris Fashion Week gets on the way.

posted by on 2014.09.24, under articles of interest
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Ninety-three shows, nine days, one fashion-crazed city. On fire, filled with political dissonance, civil unrest, good bread, bad waiters and great fashion….

The world’s travelling circus of fashion editors, buyers and celebrities waved goodbye to the cobbled streets of Milan and cried “Bonjour Paris” on Tuesday, bracing itself for the last, most colorful furlong of spring-summer 2015 ready-to-wear shows. Continue reading “Paris Fashion Week gets on the way.” »

Dolce and Gabbana close Milano Fashion Week with a Spanish Ole’

posted by on 2014.09.23, under articles of interest
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“I have this life,” said Stefano Gabbana backstage before Dolce & Gabbbana’s catwalk show in Milan on Sunday afternoon. “I want to be happy. I want to eat tomatoes and pasta. I want to have passion and indigestion.” Continue reading “Dolce and Gabbana close Milano Fashion Week with a Spanish Ole’” »

Future present at Marni

posted by on 2014.09.22, under articles of interest
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This season marks 20 years of Marni, the label Consuelo Castiglioni launched as an offshoot of her husband’s family fur business and built to become one of the most sought after Italian labels internationally.  All around town, Castiglioni’s peers have been looking backward, regardless of a milestone to celebrate, and, while she used her spring runway for a fantastic display of fashion acrobatics, she did so without reverting to retro melancholy just beautiful clothes with a futuristic, Japanese twist that made it all look new, fresh wearable and interesting. Continue reading “Future present at Marni” »

Pucci homage to the early seventies.

posted by on 2014.09.21, under articles of interest
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Obligatory referential stop as it may be, Peter Dundas didn’t need to design a Seventies-inspired collection to signal that his heart belongs to the decade. Everything about him — the curls, the cool glasses, his rock ’n’ roll attire — already makes the point.  “I held a grudge against my parents that I wasn’t an adult in the 1970s to actually have fun then,” the designer said backstage before the show. “It just feels right again now.”

  Continue reading “Pucci homage to the early seventies.” »

Donatella comes of age with a defining collection.

posted by on 2014.09.20, under articles of interest
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She seldom gets respect after all she might still be living in the shadow of Gianni even after more than 14 years….but this one was a collection Gianni would have been proud of.  Simply because it transcended the original Ethos of the house to effortlessly usher a new era  for Versace… she went somewhat graphic and minimal…but it seems that the hand of time had ruffianly taken its toll on the house a relic of time gone by:  big hair, lots of coke, Russian whores and oligarchs…that was Versace and horribly still is…to some extent. It seemed no one wanted to say anything make any comment…but the results were glaringly obvious like the plastic surgery on Donatella’s face and that nose…how can you not say anything how can it be ignored…ewh. Continue reading “Donatella comes of age with a defining collection.” »

“Zoccole Pezzaiole” at Prada

posted by on 2014.09.19, under articles of interest
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Desert bleak? Space chic?  Neo realism? Tappezzeria redux? Huge purple sand dunes fading into a brownish carpet and a harsh, dissonant soundtrack kept guests at Miuccia Prada’s show on Thursday night wondering. Yet few wondered whether Prada would awe them, only how.

London Calling: What Does ‘British’ Style Really Mean?

posted by on 2014.09.17, under articles of interest
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LONDON — On the penultimate evening of London Fashion Week, Samantha Cameron, Britain’s first lady and British Fashion Council ambassador, and Natalie Massenet, the council’s chairwoman, co-hosted a cocktail event at 10 Downing Street to celebrate what both women were careful to call “British fashion,” a.k.a. the “most successful of our creative industries,” according to Ms. Cameron — bigger than film, music and advertising. Continue reading “London Calling: What Does ‘British’ Style Really Mean?” »

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